Be sure to check the nylon clevises often, and replace if they show signs of wear. Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, can provide you with a top quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guaranteethe performance ofyourcompletedmodel, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
Max 48 Surpass also provides sufficient power to fly this airplane. NOTE: If you choose to side mount a 2-Cycle engine, we recommend using a muffler that can be almost completely enclosed inside the cowl. The muffler used in one of our prototypes is a Tatone Pitts Style Muffler for. The muffler may require slight modification to fit your engine. If you mount a 2-Cycle engine inverted or upright, a standard muffler may be used.
Complete enclosure of the engine and exhaust requires inverted installation and a custom-made exhaust manifold. The engine you select will determine how you build the fuselage, so it is important that you have the engine close at hand while building. This kit includes the new Great Planes Adjustable Engine mount. This mount will work on most. Cut or break the "spreader bar" off each mount half. Carefully trim any extra plastic off each mount half left by the spreader bar.
The surfaces where the spreader bars were attached need to be very smooth to allow the mount halves to fit together.
Snap the two mount halves together. Slide the mount halves apart until the engine mounting lugs will sit flat on the beams. Adjust the mount until the firewall centerline or offset line is centered between the "tick" marks on the mount. NOTE: If you choose to power your PD with a 4- cycle engine, keep in mind that the RPM of your engine will be considerably less than that of a 2-Cycle engine; therefore, you should select a higher pitch propeller to keep the speed and overall performance roughly equivalent to that of a 2-Cycle engine.
For example, a 10x6 or 10x7 prop would be used with a. The 4-blade prop shown on the prototype is a mock-up for static display purposes only. Using a felt tip pen, write the part name or size on each piece to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on page 6 to identify the diecutpartsand mark them before punching out. Saveall scraps. If any of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out, do not force them! Instead, first cut around the pans with an Xacto knife. Afterpunchingoutthe die-cutpans, use yourT-Baror sanding block to lightly sand the edges to remove any diecutting irregularities.
As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into groups, such as fuse fuselage , wing. Fin and stab stabilizer , and hardware. Tape the fuselage plan down to your flat work surface. Tape a piece of waxed paper over the fin and rudder portion of the plan. Working on a flat surface covered with waxed paper, glue the fin front to the fin rear. Using a T-bar or sanding block, sand both sides of the fin smooth, then sand the outline of the fin to match the plan.
Trim the edges of the rudder to match the plan, then use your T-bar with medium grit sandpaper to sand both sides of the rudder smooth. Carefully draw a centerline all around the edges of the fin and rudder this will help to maintain symmetry when sanding. Using a sanding block and coarse 50 or grit sandpaper, sand both sides of the rudder to a taper as shown on the plans. Do not sand to a sharp edge. Sand the bottom edge to a rounded shape. Sand the leading edge to a "V-shape" as shown on the plan.
Sand the top and front edges of the fin to a rounded shape. Then groove the rudder leading edge to accept the tailgear wire. See the photo at step 5 on page However, if you are building your P for sport scale competition, you may want to install a tailgear fixed or retractable in the "scale location" shown on the plan.
These instructions do not cover such a modification, but the location is shown for your convenience. Glue the stab front to the stab rear. Sand the outline of the stab to match the plan, then sand both sides of the stab smooth. Sand the leading edge and ends to a rounded shape. Leave the center portion of the LE square. Sand both sides of the elevators to a taper as shown on the plans.
The hole is drilled slightly oversize to allow for positioning, and to create a hard epoxy "sleeve" around the wire.
Roughen thejoiner wire with coarse sandpaper, then clean the wire thoroughly with alcohol to remove any oily residue. Trial fit the joiner wire into the elevators, then glue it in using 5-minute or minute epoxy. Work plenty of. NOTE: On an experimental basis, we have included "laminated hinges" in this kit, and the following instructions are written for this type of hinge.
However, as the kit builder you arc reminded that you are ultimately responsible for the structural integrity of your aircraft. If you are not confident using this type of hinge, please feel free to substitute your favorite hinge. Lay the rudder and elevators on the plan and mark the hinge locations. Place the rudder against the fin TE and transfer the marks over to the fin.
Place the elevators against the stab TE and transfer the marks over to the stab. If the balsa part breaks while you are pushing on the knife, the blade could go into your hand before you know it! A good precaution is to wear leather gloves while performing the followingsteps.
Cut the hinge slots on the accurate centerlines which you previously drew, using an Xacto knife. The recommended procedure for cutting hinge slots with an Xacto knife is given below. Begin by carefully cutting a very shallow slit in the trailing edge at the hinge location. This first cut is to establish your cut in the right place, so concentrate on staying on the centerline and don't cut too deep! Make three or four more cuts in the same line, going slightly deeper each time.
As you make these additional cuts, work on going straight into the wood. Trial fit the hinge into the slot. If the hinge is difficult to push in, re-insert the knife and move it back and forth in the slot a few times to enlarge the slot. Insert the hinges into the slots and trial fit the rudder and elevators in place on the fin and stab.
Do not glue the hinges until you are instructed to do so later in this book. Hinge gluing instructions are included later. NOTE: The following instructions explain how to build the wing on a flat surface, directly on the plans.
An alternate method is to use a Great Planes Wing Jig available from your local hobby dealer. Many expert modelers prefer to use a wing jig for high performance airplanes, as it helps to insure a straight, warp-free wing, especially if you do not have a workbench or building board that is perfectly flat. If you choose to use the Wing Jig, please read the instructions that are included with the jig before beginning.
Note that the wing plan shows the location of the main landing gear blocks. Note also that Ribs W-3 and W-4 have partial cutouts for the grooved landing gear block. If you are building your plane with a fixed not retractable landing gear, finish cutting out the notches in these ribs.
If you will be installing retracts, do not cut out these notches. Be sure to glue them to the correct side of the ribs, as shown on the plan make a right and a left set. Sand the doublers even with the edge of the ribs.
Center the spar on the plan so an equal amount protrudes on both ends. Place the ribs on the spar in their approximate position, but do not glue.
Examine the shaped, notched balsa trailing edges. These are the notches for W-1 and W Also notice that all notches in the TE are vertical; however, rib W-l will be installed at a slight angle using the Dihedral Gauge. Therefore, you should now modify the notch for W-l by cutting it to the angle of the rib. Examine the shaped, notched balsa leading edges.
Notice that one end does not have notches, this is the root end. Use a razor saw to cut notches in the leading edge as shown in the "Leading Edge Detail" on the wing plan.
These notches will aid in "breaking" the leading edge in the correct locations. Pin the jig to the building surface. Glue ribs W-2 through W-ll to the TE. Bend break the leading edge at the notches which you previously cut, then insertthe frontends ofthe ribs into the notches in the LE.
Make sure the ribs are fully down on the plan and ribs 5 are inserted into the LE notches. Glue ribs Angle rib W-l slightly using the dihedral gauge DG. NOTE: Thin CA glue may be used in tight-fitting joints, but to insure strong joints we recommend that you follow up by also applying medium or thick CA to all joints. Glue the top spar in place with the spar doubler facing down , making sure you do not change the angle of W-l.
As you do, take other steps as necessary to continue holding the wing down. Also install webs on the front of the spars between ribs 1 and 4. NOTE: You may wish to trial fit, mark, and trim each web before gluing in. NOTE: The webs must be securely glued to the spars, but it is not necessary to glue the webs to the ribs. The die-cut web is very close to the correct size, but sand it as necessary for a good fit between W-l and W The small dowel plate glues to the back edge ofthe leading edge and to ribs W-l and W The large dowel plate is located 1" behind the small dowel plate, and is glued to ribs W-l and W NOTE: The photo shows only the small dowel plate.
NOTE: The edge of the TE sheet may not be exactly straight, butjust position the sheet so it slightly overlaps the TE, and any overlap can be sanded off later. Before applying the leading edge sheeting in the next step, use your T-bar to lightly sand off the edges of the shear webs and smoothly blend the ribs to the spar.
NOTE: It will be helpful to have the following items handy for the next step Read through the following step and go through a "dry run" before actually gluing. Apply thick CA glue to the top edge of the ribs and to the front half of the spar.
Working quickly, position the leading edge sheeting at the rear edge of the notched LE so there is an equal amount protruding on both ends of the wing. Using thin CA, glue the front beveled edge of the leading edge sheeting to the back edge of the leading edge. Now wet the top surface of the sheeting so it will bend easier, then immediately bend the sheeting down onto the ribs and spar. Hold the sheeting down with long strips of masking tape until the glue has set.
You'll have to wet this sheeting to permit. Any small gaps and irregularities may later be sanded or filled with balsa filler. Remove the wing from the building board and trial fit the long grooved hardwood LG block into the notches in ribs W-3 and W-4 see the landing gear detail drawing on the wing plan for proper positioning.
File the notches if necessary for a good fit. Now use epoxy to securely glue the block in place. Cut or file the groove and hole in the landing gear block as necessary for a good fit. Using a razor saw and a sanding block, carefully cut off and sand all excess sheeting, spars, LE and TE even with W-1 and W Installing retracts requires careful planning and a lot of trial Fitting, customizing the installation as necessary to accommodate your retracts; therefore, you should take the time now to plan out your installation.
Cut sandpaper, roughen the inside of the tip where it will make the covering away in the area where the plate will be see contact with the wing and then wipe the area with rubbing Expert Tip that follows.
Page 14 4. Put the former back into the fuselage, resting it against support formers. Set it aside until cured. Steps provide instruction for installing a stab that is removable.
Many of you will find this to be a helpful feature when packing your plane into your car to head out to the field. Page 16 the CA to cure. Then, re-insert the screw and again remove the screw.
Run your finger over the hole. You will probably notice a small burr or bump on the metal. Remove the burr using grit sandpaper. Insert the tube back into the right side stab, aligning the hole in the stab with the hole in the stab tube. Position a large nylon control horn on the left side of the rudder, over the plywood plate located under the covering, aligning it with the pushrod. Use a T-pin to locate exactly where the plywood plate is on the left side of the rudder.
Page Join The Muffler 8. Using the engine as a guide, mark the four holes for the engine bolts on the engine mount. Install the engine onto the engine mount. Page Install The Nose Wheel 3. Install the header onto the engine. Align the muffler 1. Locate the fiberglass exhaust air panel. Place a piece inlet with the exhaust outlet on the header.
This is the proper of masking tape down the center of the panel. Measure and placement for the muffler. Page 20 4. On the inside lines that you have drawn, cut that 7. After you have located in the engine mount.
Because the exhaust air panel is a fiberglass lay up, there may be some slight variations in manufacturing. Page 21 head cap screw into the arm and wheel collar. Slide the metal nose gear wire into the nylon nose gear bearing, nose gear steering arm and engine mount. The coil of the nose gear wire should rest on the nylon nose gear bearing.
Tighten the set screw against the flat spot in the nose gear wire. Page 22 Turn the fairings over, placing them on a piece of Mix another small amount of 6-minute epoxy and waxed paper. Allow the glue to cure. Coat the area around the fairing that is in close contact with the wire so that the fairing is securely glued to the wire. Apply thin CA to the wood and allow it to cure. This will fuelproof the wood.
Roughen the area in the wheel pant where the plywood blocks are to be mounted. Wipe the area with rubbing alcohol. Page 24 6. Remove the forward and rear former that you installed into place during the fuselage construction. Draw a line down the center of the tray. Assemble the fuel tank as shown in the sketch.
When tightening the center screw be sure not to overtighten it. Page 26 fuselage. The tray will rest between the wing bolt mounting blocks and on the hardwood rail between the blocks.
It is necessary to position it here so there is room to re-install the rear former. Page 27 Install your radio switch and charge jack to the pushrods with the hole you are using in the elevator servo fuselage.
We used the Great Planes Switch and Charging arm. Mark the wire where it meets the hole in the servo arm. This will shown above to mate it with the first pushrod.
Place the two protect the wire from being cut by the edge of the fiberglass. Place the baffle into the cowl. Roughen the inside of the cowl with grit sandpaper where the baffle makes contact with the cowl. Clean the area with alcohol. Set the Control Throws Take some time to go through
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