Now I'm having fun trying a different set: 20mm 3. The 20mm is really difficult to leave it at home after tried. Since my girlfriend like occasionally macro shots flowers etc. I was thinking to buy a 55mm 3. Now she is ok with a short tele and a close up filter Nikon no. I would like to hear your opinion. If you click on the link I posted above, you can see that OOF rendition for a waist up portrait at full aperture. It might be a little harsh due to the small aperture compared to a faster lens.
I still of course own the 20mm and use it when I need it, but I try to make the 24mm work first. This is a good time to point out that this is all very personal. No body should choose lenses because someone else says they are good. Everyone has a different way of seeing. Get the focal lengths you like and use them. I can vouch for all- sharpness is incredible in the 2. I can't imagine these four without one of the ED's- hands down the most brilliant lens in the nikkor lineup, IMO.
Tight portraits to wonderful landscapes, it's all in this lens. Great Starter set! I got sick of the clip-on hood falling off my 2. Quite a few of the posters Ellis, Al, Charles are about as knowledgeable as they come. Here is my own 2 cents. Best Zooms: f2. In a 3 lens bag? In the 50 mm focal length there are a lot of options.
Charles Miller not too long summed up the options very well. Then I will add a mm lens and a 2X converter. Now, there are: 24 mm for landscape, 35mm for group portrait and others, mm for portrait, macro and outdoor, mm for outdoor and mm for wild life. Enjoy your new system! I would add the following to the list.
The 45mm f2. I believe it is a classic Tessar configuration. Great bokeh and being able to stop down to f32 allows for a huge depth of field. Please note that the sharpness will start to fall off after f11 due to defraction, this lens is best between f4 and f I have had excellent 11 x 14 prints at f32 with this lens, so the difraction loss is not alarming.
But as with all lenses, there are objective imperfections. Shooting wide open, expect slightly darkened corners. Again mimicking the faster Nikkor, this 35mm lens similarly distorts a bit when close-focusing. This can most easily be seen when shooting close objects with straight lines, and presents as barrel distortion. The result can be images that show greater optical artifacts than those made by a more modern Ai, Ai-S, or autofocus era lens.
Chromatic aberration shows as color fringing, purple or green outlines around high contrast areas of a frame examples can be seen in the sample shot of the lobster — check the antennae. Flares and ghosts can pop up when the front element is exposed to direct sunlight. And still more of its uniqueness comes from its simple quality.
This lens feels amazing, which encourages us to use it, to experiment and grow, and to shoot in ways that we may not think of or care to try with a modern lens. James Tocchio is a writer and photographer, and the founder of Casual Photophile. Glad to read this poem of a review Glad someone remembers the amazing craftmanship and perfection. This lens looks to not be an exception! Agree wholeheartedly. I prefer the pre-AI Nikkors because they just render so, so well.
I have been shooting this lens and the Nikkor? On my Nikon d at paid live music shows for my clients along with modern autofocus Nikon , Sigma Art and Tamron lenes.
These two hold their own for live music photography. They both have really cool hexagonal shaped light bokeh shapes. This allows me to give folks pictures different than what other folks are giving out. Especially with so many people jumping onto the Sony bandwagon. Sony pics seem to have a harder edge to them and the non Sony folks seem to edit to that look anyway for live music photography.
All good and to each his own. I find I can give pictures with more Microcontrast with these old pre ai lenses and the Nikon e fl vr has more than most other companies s. But the non ai lenses just have something special about their rendering and I think intentional aberrations and microcontrast used by the brilliant old master Nikkor lens designers are the secret sauce! Nicely comprehensive and well-written overview.
The point at last for me is that a lot of these old abandoned jeweils have what I miss at modern lenses — character! It feels like Aladin rubbing the magic lamp and any time the ghost inside offers you a wish… Looking for a amazing portrait lens with great bokeh? Still use it today! On a D it still produces great images….
Both are sensational. I also think this sort of glass is not interesting for people who buy a D3xxx or something like that. The Nikon has much better flare resistance and less distortion. The closer MFD will give you more potential blur as well and makes this lens more suitable for photographing mushroom and flowers.
If your focus is on landscape or architecture photography I would go for the Nikon, if you need the speed and the MFD of 0. I have no direct experience with this lens but enough information can be found online. Both lenses are very comparable in sharpness and very sharp across the frame stopped down.
The Canon lens has smoother bokeh although the cats eye effect is more pronounced. Flare resistance seems to be more or less equal. The Nikon has significantly less distortion, therefore I would recommend the Nikon if you plan shoot architecture. Furthermore, the Canon is cheaper so if the distortion does not bother you much and you want to trade some ergonomics for a lower weight and price go for the Canon.
The Pentax is even lighter and only weights gram. Handeling is less nice though, the Pentax feels cheaper. The Pentax seems to be a bit wider than the Nikon so the amount of background blur is less.
Bokeh also has more outlining and is therefor busier. In terms of sharpness the Nikon is better wide open, but stopped down there is barely any difference. The Nikon is the better lens although the Pentax can be found cheaper. If you plan to use the lens often for hiking trips and landscape photography I would get the Pentax since it is cheaper and lighter.
I have no personal experience with this lens but there is enough information available. Wide open this lens has better corner sharpness, however stopped down the Nikon catches up and might even have better corner sharpness.
This lens is also smaller and lighter which is nice if you travel a lot. If you like to focus manually and great handeling is important to you I would go for the Nikon. With just 85 grams the Samyang is the lightest native 35mm lens you can buy. Stopped down it is sharp across the frame with good contrast. Although not perfect, flare resistance is good enough. You can avoid ghosting and veiling flare by shading or recomposing a bit in most situations.
Bokeh can be harsh in some situations, but quite nice in other situations. If you are looking for some nice bokeh you might want to look further. All photos in this review can be found in high resolution here. Rick , thank you for the product shots of the lens! Do you know if there are IQ differences between the different versions, especially between the third tested here and the fourth version — which seems to be more common better available.
After all the lens design differs. Hi SB, From what I have read the third version has the least distortion, the fourth version should be a little bit sharper though. I only have experience with this version. If your focus is on architecture I would go for the third version. Hi Kanye, Unfortunately I have no experience with the Minolta. Phillip has used this lens though. In this link you can find a short comment of him on this lens. So nice to see a review with just user experience and great photos.
Almost every review I see is graphs and absolutely awful photos. Keep up the good work! I like those sunstars. Hi Juriaan, thanks for an excellent article and nice pics too. The one with a pool of water in front of it. Color fringing or dispersion is a bit more visible than most of its rivals, and it lacks depth of field markings on the barrel. Like other Art primes from Sigma, it comes equipped with the ring-type ultrasonic autofocus system, which is whisper-silent and super-quick.
As for manual focusing, the physical focus control ring allows you smooth and precise focus adjustments. The optical design is state-of-the-art, featuring two aspherical elements with one fluorite-grade low dispersion element and four special low dispersion elements. These ensure you get stunning image quality. The lens retains extreme image sharpness across the whole frame when shooting wide open.
Moreover, when it comes to color fringing and barrel distortion, the Sigma 35mm is a solid performer. Compared to the Nikon 35mm lens of the Z-series, this F-mount lens is compact, lightweight, and very less expensive.
A focus distance scale is available but offers limited benefits when manually focusing. This is because it lacks markings between 0. The optical design features one aspherical element and one ED element, as well as a super integrated coating.
0コメント